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Tim Banfield

@timbanfield

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- Seb and CJ making the rappels on Welcome to the Machine on Snowpatch Spire. They tried to make the most of their last day in the Bugaboos. I think the party raged until 2am after they got back, my memory is a bit vague after I had a picture I was happy with...It’s completely dark when I took this shot. I went for a longer exposure to catch the light trail in their rappel. You can see it is a couple minute exposure because of the blur in the moon. Another group coming off the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire also visible in the top right corner at the col. #alpineclimbing
- Seb and CJ making the rappels on Welcome to the Machine on Snowpatch Spire. They tried to make the most of their last day in the Bugaboos. I think the party raged until 2am after they got back, my memory is a bit vague after I had a picture I was happy with...It’s completely dark when I took this shot. I went for a longer exposure to catch the light trail in their rappel. You can see it is a couple minute exposure because of the blur in the moon. Another group coming off the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire also visible in the top right corner at the col. #alpineclimbing
- Seb and CJ making the rappels on Welcome to the Machine on Snowpatch Spire. They tried to make the most of their last day in the Bugaboos. I think the party raged until 2am after they got back, my memory is a bit vague after I had a picture I was happy with...It’s completely dark when I took this shot. I went for a longer exposure to catch the light trail in their rappel. You can see it is a couple minute exposure because of the blur in the moon. Another group coming off the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire also visible in the top right corner at the col. #alpineclimbing
- Here’s one that didn’t make the cut. I find it hard to cull images sometimes. After lots of feedback from you and friends I messaged I decided to drop this shot from the 2019 Ice Calendar. It’s @coldfear on the 6th pitch of Broken Hearts in Cody, Wyoming but don’t feel too bad for him, he’s got two more shots in there to increase the USA ice representation. Any suggestions of USA ice locations to shoot this year? I’m considering Lake Willoughby in VT right now. #iceclimbingimages
- Here’s one that didn’t make the cut. I find it hard to cull images sometimes. After lots of feedback from you and friends I messaged I decided to drop this shot from the 2019 Ice Calendar. It’s @coldfear on the 6th pitch of Broken Hearts in Cody, Wyoming but don’t feel too bad for him, he’s got two more shots in there to increase the USA ice representation. Any suggestions of USA ice locations to shoot this year? I’m considering Lake Willoughby in VT right now. #iceclimbingimages
- Here’s one that didn’t make the cut. I find it hard to cull images sometimes. After lots of feedback from you and friends I messaged I decided to drop this shot from the 2019 Ice Calendar. It’s @coldfear on the 6th pitch of Broken Hearts in Cody, Wyoming but don’t feel too bad for him, he’s got two more shots in there to increase the USA ice representation. Any suggestions of USA ice locations to shoot this year? I’m considering Lake Willoughby in VT right now. #iceclimbingimages
- Thank you for all the input yesterday! Today I’m hoping to hear from you again. I’m trying to decide which shot of @jon.walsh to include in the calendar from this set. Two questions, which body position do you like the most? The one where Jon is HORIZONTAL with his left leg up (this is one of the hardest moves I’ve ever shot) or the one where he is established ABOVE the roof? Second, which cropping do you like more? LEFT with more mountains or RIGHT with more foreground? You can respond with just the capitalized word or feedback is appreciated too.
- Thank you for all the input yesterday! Today I’m hoping to hear from you again. I’m trying to decide which shot of @jon.walsh to include in the calendar from this set. Two questions, which body position do you like the most? The one where Jon is HORIZONTAL with his left leg up (this is one of the hardest moves I’ve ever shot) or the one where he is established ABOVE the roof? Second, which cropping do you like more? LEFT with more mountains or RIGHT with more foreground? You can respond with just the capitalized word or feedback is appreciated too.
- Thank you for all the input yesterday! Today I’m hoping to hear from you again. I’m trying to decide which shot of @jon.walsh to include in the calendar from this set. Two questions, which body position do you like the most? The one where Jon is HORIZONTAL with his left leg up (this is one of the hardest moves I’ve ever shot) or the one where he is established ABOVE the roof? Second, which cropping do you like more? LEFT with more mountains or RIGHT with more foreground? You can respond with just the capitalized word or feedback is appreciated too.
- Most nights when we were at East Creek in the Bugaboos we couldn’t see the stars because of the smoke. One day it rained and that evening when I woke up to go to the bathroom, all the smoke had cleared, leaving an uncountable number of stars in the sky. I figured it might be my only opportunity to get Milky Way shots. I had choppered in a tripod for this exact reason and knew that I was going to curse the weight of the tripod on the hike out if I didn’t use it for night photography. So at 2am I busted it out and captured a couple shots. As it turned out it was one of the only nights we could see the stars and I was happy that I grabbed this one when I did, you can see the smoke in the bottom right as a blob of darkness creeping towards us.
- Most nights when we were at East Creek in the Bugaboos we couldn’t see the stars because of the smoke. One day it rained and that evening when I woke up to go to the bathroom, all the smoke had cleared, leaving an uncountable number of stars in the sky. I figured it might be my only opportunity to get Milky Way shots. I had choppered in a tripod for this exact reason and knew that I was going to curse the weight of the tripod on the hike out if I didn’t use it for night photography. So at 2am I busted it out and captured a couple shots. As it turned out it was one of the only nights we could see the stars and I was happy that I grabbed this one when I did, you can see the smoke in the bottom right as a blob of darkness creeping towards us.
- Most nights when we were at East Creek in the Bugaboos we couldn’t see the stars because of the smoke. One day it rained and that evening when I woke up to go to the bathroom, all the smoke had cleared, leaving an uncountable number of stars in the sky. I figured it might be my only opportunity to get Milky Way shots. I had choppered in a tripod for this exact reason and knew that I was going to curse the weight of the tripod on the hike out if I didn’t use it for night photography. So at 2am I busted it out and captured a couple shots. As it turned out it was one of the only nights we could see the stars and I was happy that I grabbed this one when I did, you can see the smoke in the bottom right as a blob of darkness creeping towards us.
- It was my goal to shoot Fingerberry Jam, which is a 5.12a crack climb during our trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos last month. There were several friends around with the ability to climb it but they had their own projects they were working on. On our rest day, when we went to scramble Pigeon Spire, I saw someone over on the route. I hadn’t brought a longer lens as I wanted to shoot the West Ridge of Pigeon with my wide angle lens. I took this shot hoping that I could zoom in a bit and somehow figure out who the climbers were for caption info. Several days later we moved over to Applebee campground and we ran into more friends. One was Alex and he was talking about how he and Liz had climbed Fingerberry Jam. Wanting to figure out if it was them I inserted myself into the conversation and sure enough it was. Happy to randomly have taken photos of friends on this route unbeknownst to me.
- It was my goal to shoot Fingerberry Jam, which is a 5.12a crack climb during our trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos last month. There were several friends around with the ability to climb it but they had their own projects they were working on. On our rest day, when we went to scramble Pigeon Spire, I saw someone over on the route. I hadn’t brought a longer lens as I wanted to shoot the West Ridge of Pigeon with my wide angle lens. I took this shot hoping that I could zoom in a bit and somehow figure out who the climbers were for caption info. Several days later we moved over to Applebee campground and we ran into more friends. One was Alex and he was talking about how he and Liz had climbed Fingerberry Jam. Wanting to figure out if it was them I inserted myself into the conversation and sure enough it was. Happy to randomly have taken photos of friends on this route unbeknownst to me.
- It was my goal to shoot Fingerberry Jam, which is a 5.12a crack climb during our trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos last month. There were several friends around with the ability to climb it but they had their own projects they were working on. On our rest day, when we went to scramble Pigeon Spire, I saw someone over on the route. I hadn’t brought a longer lens as I wanted to shoot the West Ridge of Pigeon with my wide angle lens. I took this shot hoping that I could zoom in a bit and somehow figure out who the climbers were for caption info. Several days later we moved over to Applebee campground and we ran into more friends. One was Alex and he was talking about how he and Liz had climbed Fingerberry Jam. Wanting to figure out if it was them I inserted myself into the conversation and sure enough it was. Happy to randomly have taken photos of friends on this route unbeknownst to me.
- A shot from our recent trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos. Inspired by some shots by @paulbridephotography . Here’s @jasfauteux on the first pitch of Solitary Confinement put up by @theraventhefox back in the early 2000s. To be honest about the shot, Jas didn’t send and shortly after a thunderstorm rolled through and they bailed which allowed us to go explore a possible new route a couple features over. I thought it worked out well for me, I got some good shots and once the storm cleared, I got to go climbing too. How do you feel about climbing shots when the climber doesn’t send? Personally, that doesn’t bother me, if the shot inspires me to go climbing I don’t really care if the person sent it. This isn’t a first ascent or a first free ascent or anything of that nature, it was put up a long time ago by people stronger than us. Does it distract from the motivation to go climb it yourself knowing the person in the photo didn’t send? It doesn’t for me.
- A shot from our recent trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos. Inspired by some shots by @paulbridephotography . Here’s @jasfauteux on the first pitch of Solitary Confinement put up by @theraventhefox back in the early 2000s. To be honest about the shot, Jas didn’t send and shortly after a thunderstorm rolled through and they bailed which allowed us to go explore a possible new route a couple features over. I thought it worked out well for me, I got some good shots and once the storm cleared, I got to go climbing too. How do you feel about climbing shots when the climber doesn’t send? Personally, that doesn’t bother me, if the shot inspires me to go climbing I don’t really care if the person sent it. This isn’t a first ascent or a first free ascent or anything of that nature, it was put up a long time ago by people stronger than us. Does it distract from the motivation to go climb it yourself knowing the person in the photo didn’t send? It doesn’t for me.
- A shot from our recent trip to East Creek in the Bugaboos. Inspired by some shots by @paulbridephotography . Here’s @jasfauteux on the first pitch of Solitary Confinement put up by @theraventhefox back in the early 2000s. To be honest about the shot, Jas didn’t send and shortly after a thunderstorm rolled through and they bailed which allowed us to go explore a possible new route a couple features over. I thought it worked out well for me, I got some good shots and once the storm cleared, I got to go climbing too. How do you feel about climbing shots when the climber doesn’t send? Personally, that doesn’t bother me, if the shot inspires me to go climbing I don’t really care if the person sent it. This isn’t a first ascent or a first free ascent or anything of that nature, it was put up a long time ago by people stronger than us. Does it distract from the motivation to go climb it yourself knowing the person in the photo didn’t send? It doesn’t for me.
- Back from Devil’s Tower, now it’s time to go through the 3200 Bugaboos pictures I shot...Most people who have been to the Bugs are familiar with the classic views from Applebee Campground in the morning, the alpine glow on Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires. This is the morning view from East Creek, the sun reaches camp a bit later giving you more excuses to stay in the tent waiting for it to warm up a bit, then the sun rises over the Pigeon Feathers and it becomes coffee time.
- Back from Devil’s Tower, now it’s time to go through the 3200 Bugaboos pictures I shot...Most people who have been to the Bugs are familiar with the classic views from Applebee Campground in the morning, the alpine glow on Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires. This is the morning view from East Creek, the sun reaches camp a bit later giving you more excuses to stay in the tent waiting for it to warm up a bit, then the sun rises over the Pigeon Feathers and it becomes coffee time.
- Back from Devil’s Tower, now it’s time to go through the 3200 Bugaboos pictures I shot...Most people who have been to the Bugs are familiar with the classic views from Applebee Campground in the morning, the alpine glow on Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires. This is the morning view from East Creek, the sun reaches camp a bit later giving you more excuses to stay in the tent waiting for it to warm up a bit, then the sun rises over the Pigeon Feathers and it becomes coffee time.
- A 3:1 ratio with baking soda and some water and let it boil, but don’t overdo it cause it won’t harden properly. Do this a couple times and you’ll notice bubbles, bigger bubbles mean it’s purer, continue to heat although you don’t need it to boil, keep swirling and it will begin to solidify, once it solidifies then you have crack. Although these cracks seemed to be formed by magma that solidified under the ground and then the earth eroded away. Same same but different.
- A 3:1 ratio with baking soda and some water and let it boil, but don’t overdo it cause it won’t harden properly. Do this a couple times and you’ll notice bubbles, bigger bubbles mean it’s purer, continue to heat although you don’t need it to boil, keep swirling and it will begin to solidify, once it solidifies then you have crack. Although these cracks seemed to be formed by magma that solidified under the ground and then the earth eroded away. Same same but different.
- A 3:1 ratio with baking soda and some water and let it boil, but don’t overdo it cause it won’t harden properly. Do this a couple times and you’ll notice bubbles, bigger bubbles mean it’s purer, continue to heat although you don’t need it to boil, keep swirling and it will begin to solidify, once it solidifies then you have crack. Although these cracks seemed to be formed by magma that solidified under the ground and then the earth eroded away. Same same but different.
- The day after flying into East Creek in the Bugaboos we decided to get an appropriately timed start for the route Crack of Noon. I think we actually started closer to 11:45 though, after the bacon and eggs were ready. I’ve wanted to climb this route for several years as it’s one of the only routes in the guidebook listed in East Creek that seemed manageable (5.9+). The route’s first and third pitches are awesome. Here’s G-Paq about to start the chimney on the third pitch.
- The day after flying into East Creek in the Bugaboos we decided to get an appropriately timed start for the route Crack of Noon. I think we actually started closer to 11:45 though, after the bacon and eggs were ready. I’ve wanted to climb this route for several years as it’s one of the only routes in the guidebook listed in East Creek that seemed manageable (5.9+). The route’s first and third pitches are awesome. Here’s G-Paq about to start the chimney on the third pitch.
- The day after flying into East Creek in the Bugaboos we decided to get an appropriately timed start for the route Crack of Noon. I think we actually started closer to 11:45 though, after the bacon and eggs were ready. I’ve wanted to climb this route for several years as it’s one of the only routes in the guidebook listed in East Creek that seemed manageable (5.9+). The route’s first and third pitches are awesome. Here’s G-Paq about to start the chimney on the third pitch.
- A shot from the Bugaboos last week. We were based out of East Creek which is oddly enough on the West Side of the Bugs close to the base of the South Howser Tower. We spent lots of time exploring the Pigeon Feathers and we saw one other party all week while we were climbing, some people passed through camp but we never saw them on routes. Contrast that with our day climbing at Applebee on the hike out when we saw 12 parties in the McTech Arete area and that made our choice to head to East Creek seem worth it. Here’s Guillaume Paquette starting up the second pitch of Solitary Confinement, shortly after thunderstorms rolled in and they rapped off.
- A shot from the Bugaboos last week. We were based out of East Creek which is oddly enough on the West Side of the Bugs close to the base of the South Howser Tower. We spent lots of time exploring the Pigeon Feathers and we saw one other party all week while we were climbing, some people passed through camp but we never saw them on routes. Contrast that with our day climbing at Applebee on the hike out when we saw 12 parties in the McTech Arete area and that made our choice to head to East Creek seem worth it. Here’s Guillaume Paquette starting up the second pitch of Solitary Confinement, shortly after thunderstorms rolled in and they rapped off.
- A shot from the Bugaboos last week. We were based out of East Creek which is oddly enough on the West Side of the Bugs close to the base of the South Howser Tower. We spent lots of time exploring the Pigeon Feathers and we saw one other party all week while we were climbing, some people passed through camp but we never saw them on routes. Contrast that with our day climbing at Applebee on the hike out when we saw 12 parties in the McTech Arete area and that made our choice to head to East Creek seem worth it. Here’s Guillaume Paquette starting up the second pitch of Solitary Confinement, shortly after thunderstorms rolled in and they rapped off.
- Just came across these photos last night after going on a trip to Mexico two Novembers ago. Here’s @andrea.hanley at sunrise on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America at 5636m / 18,490ft. We started the morning down in the clouds in the picture, in the pouring rain with temps around 0c. With just soft shell pants the rain was soaking and running down into my boots leaving water sloshing around inside...good thing they are waterproof ha. I wanted to capture Andrea as a silhouette but still get some foreground and her headlamp in the picture. Shooting with a 17-40 f4 lens I went for a shutter speed of 1/30 at f4 and cranked up the ISO. In hindsight I would probably go for a slower shutter speed and try to put my camera on a rock or a pack so I could reduce the ISO as the shot came out a bit grainy.
- Just came across these photos last night after going on a trip to Mexico two Novembers ago. Here’s @andrea.hanley at sunrise on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America at 5636m / 18,490ft. We started the morning down in the clouds in the picture, in the pouring rain with temps around 0c. With just soft shell pants the rain was soaking and running down into my boots leaving water sloshing around inside...good thing they are waterproof ha. I wanted to capture Andrea as a silhouette but still get some foreground and her headlamp in the picture. Shooting with a 17-40 f4 lens I went for a shutter speed of 1/30 at f4 and cranked up the ISO. In hindsight I would probably go for a slower shutter speed and try to put my camera on a rock or a pack so I could reduce the ISO as the shot came out a bit grainy.
- Just came across these photos last night after going on a trip to Mexico two Novembers ago. Here’s @andrea.hanley at sunrise on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America at 5636m / 18,490ft. We started the morning down in the clouds in the picture, in the pouring rain with temps around 0c. With just soft shell pants the rain was soaking and running down into my boots leaving water sloshing around inside...good thing they are waterproof ha. I wanted to capture Andrea as a silhouette but still get some foreground and her headlamp in the picture. Shooting with a 17-40 f4 lens I went for a shutter speed of 1/30 at f4 and cranked up the ISO. In hindsight I would probably go for a slower shutter speed and try to put my camera on a rock or a pack so I could reduce the ISO as the shot came out a bit grainy.
- Alex Bourassa climbing Fudge Packer, 5.13d at Planet X up Cougar Canyon in Canmore, AB from a couple of weeks ago. This is one of Canada’s premier crags for higher grades. The routes are longer so a 70m rope is useful. Lately there has been an increase in new routes with a couple 5.14s popping up. When I shot this route I was hanging on a rope that @jonathansiegrist put up for me to shoot him and @shainasavoy top down. As I was hanging out, I turned around and saw this shot of Alex that I really liked. I find Planet X challenging to shoot as often the climber blends into the wall and is hard to see so I was happy with this shot.
- Alex Bourassa climbing Fudge Packer, 5.13d at Planet X up Cougar Canyon in Canmore, AB from a couple of weeks ago. This is one of Canada’s premier crags for higher grades. The routes are longer so a 70m rope is useful. Lately there has been an increase in new routes with a couple 5.14s popping up. When I shot this route I was hanging on a rope that @jonathansiegrist put up for me to shoot him and @shainasavoy top down. As I was hanging out, I turned around and saw this shot of Alex that I really liked. I find Planet X challenging to shoot as often the climber blends into the wall and is hard to see so I was happy with this shot.
- Alex Bourassa climbing Fudge Packer, 5.13d at Planet X up Cougar Canyon in Canmore, AB from a couple of weeks ago. This is one of Canada’s premier crags for higher grades. The routes are longer so a 70m rope is useful. Lately there has been an increase in new routes with a couple 5.14s popping up. When I shot this route I was hanging on a rope that @jonathansiegrist put up for me to shoot him and @shainasavoy top down. As I was hanging out, I turned around and saw this shot of Alex that I really liked. I find Planet X challenging to shoot as often the climber blends into the wall and is hard to see so I was happy with this shot.
- On a mission to climb ‘Fay in a day’ we headed up the 3/4 Couloir to change up the approach because I had never been up it and have done the Perren approach several times. Reading about the 3/4 Couloir in Jeff Lowe’s Ice World I was always intrigued by it. We didn’t have quite the mini epic they did in the book (their photographer was hit by a falling rock) but we did get to experience some Rockies rock fall. I wouldn’t go up the Couloir again if trying to do Mt Fay in a day, mostly because it tops out a lot further from the face then the Perren route but also because of the additional objective hazard. It sure looks like an awesome ski though. Here’s Jeremiah, @coloradoclimbingcompany when we transitioned into walking mode. Yes we are just about to gain a glacier and don’t have a rope on. I had stopped to wait for him so we could rope up before crossing it.
- On a mission to climb ‘Fay in a day’ we headed up the 3/4 Couloir to change up the approach because I had never been up it and have done the Perren approach several times. Reading about the 3/4 Couloir in Jeff Lowe’s Ice World I was always intrigued by it. We didn’t have quite the mini epic they did in the book (their photographer was hit by a falling rock) but we did get to experience some Rockies rock fall. I wouldn’t go up the Couloir again if trying to do Mt Fay in a day, mostly because it tops out a lot further from the face then the Perren route but also because of the additional objective hazard. It sure looks like an awesome ski though. Here’s Jeremiah, @coloradoclimbingcompany when we transitioned into walking mode. Yes we are just about to gain a glacier and don’t have a rope on. I had stopped to wait for him so we could rope up before crossing it.
- On a mission to climb ‘Fay in a day’ we headed up the 3/4 Couloir to change up the approach because I had never been up it and have done the Perren approach several times. Reading about the 3/4 Couloir in Jeff Lowe’s Ice World I was always intrigued by it. We didn’t have quite the mini epic they did in the book (their photographer was hit by a falling rock) but we did get to experience some Rockies rock fall. I wouldn’t go up the Couloir again if trying to do Mt Fay in a day, mostly because it tops out a lot further from the face then the Perren route but also because of the additional objective hazard. It sure looks like an awesome ski though. Here’s Jeremiah, @coloradoclimbingcompany when we transitioned into walking mode. Yes we are just about to gain a glacier and don’t have a rope on. I had stopped to wait for him so we could rope up before crossing it.

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